Giraffes, Farewells and Reflections

Wednesday 6th August

Woke up at 8am this morning, excited by the prospect of a day of fun and light relief compared to some other of the experiences I have had, a nice way to end the trip I thought. Mike arrived at about 10am to pick me up, looking a little worse for wear after what I believe was a big night for him the night before, getting to bed at 4am! Our first stop for the day was the market so I could get a few souvenirs. It took over 2 hours and three attempts to find the market, as it moves about each day but eventually we arrived and I was not prepared for the experience ahead. Immediately they were scrambling for my attention. I found it quite intimidating at first, and just wanted to look around and get used to the place before I got taken for all my money!

Mike, Maria and Maina were awesome. Straight away they haggled down the price of a giraffe for Lesley which was quite impressive. This continued throughout the market with Maina and Maria haggling everything down and making the trip feel safer. Every stall I found ‘sister, come in, I give you good price, its free to look, step in!’ I bought a few little bits but it was all very touristy.

Went back to the car where we found Mike who had slipped away to have a sleep in the car! I went and bought some refreshment for everyone and then we were met by James, Esther and Alvin for the afternoon. It was a squeeze in the car, 7 of us, you can just imagine how that would go down back in England!

Next stop was the Giraffe Centre, and with a personal love for these animals I was so excited. Almost immediately in the car we had to stop for Mike to be sick, but eventually got there! For residents is costs just 100ksh, but for a non-res it costs 700ksh. This happens at all the tourists events and is quite frustrating. But nothing could dampen this moment. Within seconds of entering I had giraffe food in my hand and was on a tree platform feeding the giraffe’s at eye level. Amazing! They have such long eyelashes and are such pretty animals. Their tongues are long and a blue/purple colour. They are kind natured and were content for you to touch and stroke them. I was also told to put a pellet on my lips and they would take it out. A bit apprehensive but gave it a go. It felt very weird but awesome at the same time! I stayed there for about 30 mins just watching and feeding them, I really could have stayed all day and watch them, they are so beautiful and you can’t get anywhere near as close to them in England’s zoos.

We got back into the car to make the short trip to Nairobi’s National Park and Safari Walk. 5 mins into the car journey we had to make a similar quick pit stop for Mike, who was still struggling... he claims it was something he ate but I’m just not sure! We arrived at the park which was very similar to Whipsnade Zoo back home. It was a nice relaxing trip and better than the zoo to know that these animals actually live and come from Kenya. The prices for non-res were even more expensive, but I’m there to do it so wasn’t going to worry about the cost. I saw many animals up close and James explained a bit about their background and heritage. It was a perfect way to end my experience.

Got back to James and Maria’s home where I got straight to packing up my stuff. I didn’t have much to pack as most of what I took was sporting equipment and clothing which I was leaving behind. I gave Maria the rest of my clothes which she said she would take to the church where they are needed.

Steve then arrived to bid me farewell and thank me on behalf of Sporting Chance International for the work I had done out here. We talked about the trip and my experience, and my thoughts on the organisations work and future. It was a chance to give my opinion which was good and I was able to highlight the areas I feel are the most worthy of support. He then presented me with a gift for coming to Kenya and as he put it ‘making a difference’. It was a plaque with a clock and SCI emblem. It was hand-painted and hand-made. A special gift that for me represents an unbelievable trip with experiences I will never get another opportunity to have in the same way. It shows their appreciation and that they feel I have made a positive impact on the charity and it’s projects. It represents a whirlwind of emotion.

Steve left and we tucked into dinner, my last Kenyan meal of chicken, rice and veg. James arrived back from a meeting and was pleased I was still awake... he said he had run back to make sure he didn’t miss me! He said my trip has been far too short and he is sad to see me go. He made a speech to thank me for coming and connecting with him and the family. He said he felt we had a special bond and I have to agree with him, I feel I have a strong relationship with James and his family and have grown close to them in the last few days. He said some incredibly nice and generous things that I very much appreciated. I will definitely stay in contact with the Mugambi family.

I went to bed with a lot to think about. I am starting to reflect and it took hours to finally get to sleep.

Thursday 7th August

Fly back day! Alarm went off at 5am and despite the excitement of going home I found it very difficult to get up! Got myself ready and dragged my stuff through to the living room. The whole family were already up and having tea. It was too early to have anything so I just sat and chatted until Mike and Maina arrived. James and the family had decided they wanted to come to the airport to say goodbye which was really sweet.

Amazingly enough, Mike and Maina were early, far from African time I have come to know. We packed up the car and Maina said we wouldn’t be allowed into the airport with the kids and too many of us in the car so Esther and Alvin had to stay behind. I said goodbye to them and we had a long hug but they were very upset not to be coming. James said they had grown quite attached!

We left in the car only to get stuck just down the road. Traffic at this time! We drove up to the main road, already built up pretty heavy with traffic. Maina weaved in and out of the other cars and then suddenly BANG! We had hit and scraped past a lorry and hit it. I had mentioned the dangerous driving but didn’t expect to be involved in such a close shave! The car bumper had fallen off and there was a big scrape down the side of the car I was sitting! The bumper got carried to the side of the road and we continued with the journey as if nothing had happened. The rest of the journey, although slow was pretty uneventful, with Maina now driving very cautiously.

We arrived at the airport with ample time to say goodbye. Everyone walked me to the entrance, as far as they were allowed, then it was big hugs and photos all round! I will miss them! I checked in and went through security pretty quickly, into the waiting area where I had a juice and muffin. Flight went pretty quickly too. I had three seats to myself so spread out and managed to sleep for 6 of the 8 hour journey.

Arrived at Heathrow and hit me I was home, and couldn’t wait to see mum, dad and Soutar who were waiting through in arrivals. It was a long wait for passport control and then the bags. Walking through customs I saw a Kenyan lady walking through with her luggage balanced on her head. It seemed so normal back in Kenya but very surreal to see it here. I walked through and immediately saw mum. Pure emotion and relief and I burst into tears. Nothing was wrong, just relief to be back and not on my own anymore. Was really nice to see everyone but very overwhelming.

A long evening of photos and stories took place- I think it was too early really to be talking about it but it all went over my head and pretty quickly so I didn’t have time to get upset about what I was seeing and talking about. The whole family were given Kenyan bracelets which I am pleased to say they loved and 2 weeks down the line are still wearing!

Looking back...

Looking back on the experience I feel very mixed emotions. Two weeks on it is still very raw and the things I saw still very much at the forefront of my mind. It is hard to talk about and express my feelings- unless you have experienced something like it it is impossible to understand and I think I am really missing someone to talk to about it all. That has been the hardest battle for me the whole way through the trip and still is now. I think it is going to take time to settle and come to terms with.

I now start to appreciate what an undertaking the trip really was- particularly for someone who appreciates life’s comforts and luxuries and who I don’t think really gave the trip the respect it deserved from the beginning.

I don’t regret going and it really was ‘a trip of a lifetime’ however I do regret doing at alone. That was a mistake and I think in not being able to talk about it freely it will be something I struggle with for a long time.

I know I will and have to get involved somehow in supporting Sporting Chance International, particularly the football academy which is taking such an important role in shaping lives for a positive future.

The blog definitely helped me through, and I would really like to thank those who supported me, read my blog and left me good will wishes and messages. I really appreciated that support and it definitely kept me upbeat.

I cannot thank mum, dad and Soutar enough, particularly mum who I know struggled with worry the whole time I was away, but was such a strength when all I wanted to do was talk and cry down the phone at the things I had encountered during the days. It can't have been easy for her but it kept me sane and was what I desperately needed. I cant thank her enough for that.

Thats it... until the next adventure...??!!! Thanks for taking an interest!

Playaway Centre and Kibera

Didn’t sleep too well last night due to what sounded like a party outside my window!! Alarm went off, I got up and got myself ready for the last ‘work’ style day of the trip. Mike arrived at 9.30am to take me to the Playway Educational Centre. Maria joined me on the trip as Esther and Alvin attend this school and she was organizing the visit. We arrived and again met the head teacher. This seems to be the protocol out here. I met a group of 7 students, including Esther and Alvin that make up the email group. Alan has set up an email group with his school in Cornwall for some of his students. They send various emails throughout the year and keep in touch. A really nice scheme and one I would like to set up with the students at St George’s.
I introduced myself and talked about England, I am getting quite good at this now! We then talked about the email program and decided it would be nice if they wrote one there so I could send them for the children. The computer teacher wasn’t there so this wasn't possible but they wrote a hand written letter instead which I will post to Alan on my return. Their writing and English was very good. They wrote in a very friendly manner, suggesting they felt they had really got to know the students they were writing to over time. Once they were written I gave them out some gifts of stationary and games which they were very pleased with. They scrabbled over the frisbee’s and harmonica’s, unfortunately I didn’t have enough. They all did get a pot of bubbles so think they were satisfied! The meeting then ended and I went back to speak to the headteacher. She said she would be happy to start up another group with my school so if all ok in September I hope to do that.

Outside there was a lot of noise. The school sports day was taking place so I went over excitedly with the email group to watch. There was a big crowd surrounding a small basketball court and field, all of the children were cheering and getting very involved and excited. Races I watched included a sack race, where pupils must jump about 20m and then put on their uniform that is in a pile on the floor as quickly as they can, and then jump another 10m to the end. Very cute to watch. Another was a classic relay race using a stick as the baton, and the pre-school children raced to see who could fill an old tub of butter with sand the quickest! It was incredible to watch, so competitive and everyone getting very involved whether they were a competitor or spectator.

We had to leave for the journey to Kibera, but I could have stayed and watched them all day. We arrived in Kibera slum at about 1pm. I went to the office again to meet the teachers and director of the academy. Again they explained the hardships of the school and academy and how they just try to give the girls some hope and love in their life. The girls were in the classroom having a day of poetry with a traveling American teacher. She led the girls through some drama, poetry and fun small games. It was my first opportunity to see the girls and it struck me how normal they were! It sounds funny that I thought they wouldn’t be, but living in the environment I had seen yesterday it was difficult to imagine they could be. But they were just young girls enjoying each other’s company and having fun. I watched them play a game where they had to express different feelings and emotions, like happiness, loneliness etc. They were so focused and want to please in all that they do.

When Catherine had finished her morning session I got about 20 mins to introduce myself, very briefly talk to the girls and present them with the posters that the girls at Storm’s school had made for their bare classroom walls. They were excited and took time to walk around and look at them all. We took many photos and they started to decorate the walls with them. I also read out a card from Storm which they were pleased to hear. I then gave each of the girls some stationary which I had brought out for them. They were excited about this too, a whole day of gifts, and they used their equipment straight away for the poetry session in the afternoon.

We stopped for lunch. The teachers had cooked lunch for everybody, including myself, Mike and our driver, Mache. We had rice, meat and a cup of squash. I sat next to Vanessa and she told me about herself and her family. She loves school and it is her only hope as she struggles away from a family where she is an orphan living with an aunty in terrible conditions. We finished lunch and the afternoon poetry session began. I was told to observe this which was ok, but had meant I had visited Kibera twice and neither time did I really get an opportunity to interact with the girls. I would love to teach a bit myself and get more involved but I didn’t want to take focus away from the poetry. It was interesting to see the girls create poems based on struggle, their life, and hope. At the end they had a reading session where girls got up and read some poems out. It was quite an emotional experience as the honesty was there. The community of the academy is so close that they feel safe sharing their troubles with each other.

I left at 4pm to walk to the soccer field with the teachers and girls involved. The other girls who do not play soccer stayed to finish the poetry session. We walked through about 2ft of rubbish they whole way to the field. We got to the field and waited for the other girls to arrive as the teachers set up. I asked if I should set something up and they told me to sit and watch. Was a bit gutted as wanted to get more involved, they had told me yesterday I could run some of the session. I did get to lead a stretching session which I enjoyed, I did an SAQ style stretching session. But I’m not sure what they made of it as when I had finished the other coach then led them through another stretching session??! I don’t think they had seen dynamic stretching before. I then joined in the coaches session for about 15mins until I had to leave. The coaches work very differently from that in England. They join in with everything as they say it motivates the girls. Their relationship with the girls is so different that it works, but I don’t think it would in England. We had to leave by 6pm so I didn’t actually get to see them play football which was a real shame. I feel I have missed out a bit on my experience with the girls at Kibera for one reason or another. I definitely have not created the bond that Storm had with the girls.

The trip back to Maria and James’ house took over 2 hours because of the traffic. You cannot explain the traffic out here, it has to be seen to be understood but it literally goes on for miles and you don’t move for up to ½ hour at a time. They could really do with some sort of by-pass!
When I arrived back I got straight into my pyjamas and sat down to chat with the family. We had a nice meal of spaghetti, meat and veg and then watched some television. James said he was really enjoying having me stay and felt I was very easy to get on with. They all said they would be sad to see me go, nice! I went to bed about 10.30 and read some book then fell asleep, long day.

Kibera and the Soccer Academy

Woke up at 8am after a decent sleep where I felt refreshed for the first time this trip. Steve had prepared some hot water for me to wash with (thank you!) and I got ready for the day. Steve had made me an omelette, with fresh fruit and bread for breakfast. Mike arrived at 9.20am, had breakfast and then helped me to sort out where the gifts I had brought out should go to. We split them into age groups… the biros and pads to Kibera, and colouring crayons, balloons and bubbles etc, the fun stuff, to the two primary schools I was visiting.

We then left for Kibera, the biggest slum in Africa, and second biggest in the world with over 3 million population. The poverty hits you immediately, homes made of corrugated iron slabs with gaps, that could be lifted up and moved. The whole site is a dumping ground for rubbish… it is absolutely everywhere. We drove through to the centre which took about 20 minutes. Most people here earn just 10 shillings or less a day (about 8p). We drove to the centre where Kibera girls soccer academy is situated and waited for the teachers to come and greet us. The soccer academy started 7 years ago just as a soccer team, and then with the contributions from friends and well-wishers they have expanded into a school and soccer academy of about 85 girls. They want to expand to 4 forms but just don’t have the resources. They showed me into the office, a small mud hut style office and their one cupboard of resources. A few text books, two microscopes and some stationary. They explained about the school and the situation of the girls who learn here. They arrive every morning by 6 although lessons do not start until 7.30am. He said this is a clear sign they are desperate to get away from their home situation. The school already feeds the kids at lunch as for most it is the only meal they get and they do not focus properly in class without it. Ideally they would love to turn the school into boarding so that children do not have to go home every night to their horrendous situations, and would not have to walk the three hours there and back, which those living on the outskirts of the slums have to do.

They showed me their 3 small classrooms, with nothing but desks and chairs. It is the only free school in Kibera, which the teachers feel is very important, but everyday they have to turn girls away who come pleading to join because of lack of space and resources. While we were there a girl came carrying a desk and pleading to join form 2. Some girls in the school had told her that if she could provide a desk and chair to sit on she might get in. But they had to turn her away because of lack of space, they were already crammed into tiny rooms. It was heart-breaking to watch, and the teachers felt awful sending her away, you could see the look on their faces.

The lessons run from 7.30 until 4.30, where the soccer players, about 35 walk to the field outside of the slum to train for 2 hours. They are an excellent side, and currently through to the final of a county style championship, and are also known to beat some boys teams! The girls had the day off today because they had their semi final on Saturday but I hope to meet them, watch them study and assist with their football training tomorrow, exciting! Because there were no girls to see I took a walk of the slum with the teachers. It is just full of rubbish. We walked the railway line which is normal, and people just run out of the way when a train comes, madness. I saw a lot, mainly rubbish, run down shacks and people trying to survive and make a living on very little.

The only English that everybody knows is ‘how are you’ or from the very little kids ‘how arroooo’!!! I heard it non-stop the whole time I was out of the car! A man was preparing cows hoofs for his dinner, apparently it is cheap and the bone marrow is tasty…! We walked to the top where I got the best view of most of the slum. The railway literally divides the rich and the poor. On one side the slum, and on the other a very nice golf course where the president often plays! It has to be seen to be believed. In Kenya, you could be living next door to someone rich, but then on the other side someone scraping for their one meal a day, madness.

Storm said I would leave me heart here, I am certainly humbled and emotional from the experience and am looking forward to meeting the girls tomorrow. I met Florence, one of the soccer players who was wearing a lacrosse shirt Storm had donated, she was very sweet. I feel St George’s, the school I teach at could do something small which would make a big difference here. Just £800 would build another classroom.

We left the slum and went to the cyber café before lunch. Much better internet service than Mumias, but still too slow to upload photos. Put blog on and read some of the comments. I was already feeling emotional and shed a few tears! We had a quick bite to eat and then back in the car for Umoja.

We arrived at Peter Kibokosya school at 2pm and went straight in to meet the principal. I presented her with some stationary for the school. She was very pleased and said she would keep it for the new form arriving in September. I was happy with that as was about to meet 200 of them and certainly didn’t have enough for all of them. They led me into a big classroom full of all the girls from the school. They had been waiting in there for over an hour as they anticipated my arrival!

I spoke for 10minutes about myself, and then opened the floor to questions. They were all very shy at first, and the other adults had to walk out of the room before the questions started coming. But when they did, it didn’t stop! Everything from school life in England, to the prime minister, to my favourite music and films. So many questions! They were desperate for me to sing the national anthem, you all know how I sing and I was just not prepared to embarrass myself like that!! So I hummed it and said the words, probably sounded worse!

I then went into a classroom to see them working and it also gave the boys an opportunity to ask any questions they had. These were mainly football related so I did my best! Storm said I would be amazed to see how they work silently without a teacher in the room. It was not the case this time. They had just finished exams and so had nothing to do and were very chatty and loud!
The last job of the day was to go and visit one of the soccer academy boys for his hospital appointment. He was attempting a bicycle kick at training on Sunday and landed on his arm, snapping both the fibia and tibia in two. The boys thought it was a dislocation of the wrist so in trying to put it back they had done even more damage. He had been in a lot of pain but seemed settled now and was having an x-ray to check the bones are in the correct place under the cast so to heal correctly. He was very sweet.

We then said goodbye to Steve and Milka as I wont see them again. Milka gave me a gift. She had a bracelet with my name and the Kenyan flag on it made for me, so sweet, as well as a couple of other bits. She is so awesome, I will miss her a lot.

Back to Maria’s and James’ house. I can relax here now as I don’t have to move all of my stuff again. I arrived and immediately felt at home. They are a very kind and generous family. I gave Alvin and Esther some presents which they were very chuffed with and also a pack of playing cards and a box of cadbury’s Roses! This set the evening up. After dinner we played an African game with the cards which was very funny. We lost hours playing and munching the chocs. I felt I bonded with the family that night. Nice.

Back to Nairrobi

Woke up at 4.30am and again had another toilet experience. I cannot express how the village food does not agree with me! Nightmare. I got together my things and sorted myself out. I left Caroline some gifts of clothing, money and chocolate to thank her for keeping me company this week and looking after me. The driver picked me up at 5am to make the long journey to Kisumu. We picked up Pius on the way who was accompanying me. He had walked in pitch black darkness along the dangerous roads from his village to come and meet us. He says a lot of people get killed from walking the roads at night. We drove the 2 hour journey through to Kisumu. I had a sleep in the back, well an attempt anyway as the roads are so bumpy with holes there is no chance of proper sleep! It is very interesting to see how as you get closer to the big town, Kisumu, everything gets slightly better and wealthier, becoming more urban. Arrived at the airport after a beautiful view of the famous Lake Victoria. I said goodbye and left gifts of money and presents with Pius for him and Abraham and the driver. I was early for the flight! Was a relief to be able to check in and then chill for a bit, not feeling stressed that I might miss the flight!

The flight was short and quick, and very soon I was back in Nairobi for the next instalment of my journey. Arrived there, collected my things and then went to meet Mike and Fred. They had got stuck in traffic (again!) so were half an hour late. It was good to see them and their friendly faces! We chatted and laughed all the way to Mika and Steve’s house where we were going for lunch. Steve (a different one) Vice Chairman of SCI was also with us. A driving experience around Nairobi turns into a shopping one to. You can buy nearly everything from the seat of your car and vendors hang around the roadside. We bought some bananas, a newspaper and Fred even topped up his phone with more credit! Amazing!

Got to Milka’s and it was really nice to see her. She welcomed us in and immediately gave us a drink and two toasted sandwiches, and that was just a snack! I only managed one, but Fred was more than happy to help me out! We then sat and chatted while Milka prepared lunch… more food! We watched Men in Black on tv and talked with Steve and Milka a lot about teaching and how it differs in both of our countries. They still use the cane and beat here in the classrooms in Kenya, although it is technically not allowed!!!! We had a classic style Kenyan meal, the sort I was becoming accustomed to here of rice, chipati, veg and meat.

Fred also handed out the SCI t shirts I had brought out from Alan to the guys and they were happily trying them on. They seemed very proud to be wearing them and asked me to thank Alan greatly for the gifts.

We said goodbye at 2pm and drove round to the academy I had visited last Sunday where they were putting on some matches for me to watch. It all looked very professional with the SCI banner up, a tent and chairs for people to watch from. They had also marked out a pitch, using some sort of baking flour for the lines. We took photos of all of the teams and then they quickly began. We watched the U10s play, then the girls team, the U12s, U14s and then finished with an impressive and talent FULL game from the U16 team. I was so impressed with the level of play and talent amongst the boys. They only have 3 footballs between 80 to play with twice a week and yet they show so much skill. While some were playing I took the time to speak to as many of them as I could and find out a bit about them. My favourite little Arsenal supporter, 10 year old Edgar, loved to talk and have his photo taken! At the end the boys were given a soda and half a loaf of bread each. This does not normally happen and was a big treat for the boys and girls, they were very pleased. There was some left over and you could see boys taking it and stuffing it into their bags. For some that will be their only meal today.

All of the boys and girls then gathered for speeches. I again spoke to them and most had remembered my name from the week before which felt good. I told them how impressed I was and how talented they were. I also again told of the importance of education and sport and the focus it gives you, especially away from the negative activities like drugs and alcohol that the young children here are drawn to. They thanked me again for my contribution of bibs, cones and whistles they received last week and were using today. Many people spoke to them to encourage them in their football.

The day then ended and I went to James’ house with him to meet his family and stay for the night. His wife Maria, daughter Esther and son Alvin were all pleased to meet me. They also had 4 guests around, James’ brother Alex and a friend with her two children. One of the children got very attached to me very quickly and literally didn’t leave my side or stop touching me all night until I went to bed! Very sweet. I was the first muzungu he had ever come into contact with. We all ate a very nice meal and talked for a long time.

A day in Nairobi

Sunday 3rd August

Woke up this morning at 7am in order to get ready for church which started at 8am. Because of the lack of water my wet wipes came in handy and I got ready in the smartest clothes I had with me! I went in to the sitting room and breakfast was already prepared. The Kenyan’s love their food! We had a peanut butter and jam sandwich and a sausage! Nice mix! I went early to church with Esther their daughter while James and Maria were getting ready so came later.

As we walked down the road where the church is you could hear the music and singing already going. The Kenyan’s believe that singing is like praying twice, so a lot is done through song! The sound is amazing, very loud, in tune and heart felt. A lot of arm raising, holding hands and powerful song. It was very moving. The speaker then asked any visitors to stand up. I stood up and he welcomed me in front of everybody, about 300 people. Was a bit embarrassing but everybody was interested to see a muzungu in their church.

The pastor then took what I would consider almost a lesson on the bible readings. It was very strange to see people getting out their laptops, notebooks and pens in church to take notes on what the scriptures actually mean and how they translate. The service in all took about 3 hours, a very long time, but luckily the service was done n English otherwise I would have struggled!
Outside after is the time of the week when people socialize with their friends. Maria said people could stand outside church talking for p to 3 hours on a Sunday! I spoke to many people who introduced themselves and shook my hand. The community is very friendly and everybody seems to know everybody. James took me back to the house as it was cold, and he gave me some warm milk with cereal. Kenyan’s don’t seem to like cold drinks.

We then had lunch of fish, ugali and vegetables. At 2pm Mike arrived and we went to the Nairobi National Museum. It reopened last week after 3 years so everybody was excited to be going. Steve and Mercy, who I will be staying with that night came too. It was nice to do some Touristy style things, and was really nice to see some other muzungo’s around! The museum was brilliant and I could have stayed there longer than 2 hours. I learnt a lot about their heritage and culture, it was fascinating. They also had an exhibition on the wildlife of Kenya.

Reading about a lot of the tribal heritage and tradition has really put a bee in my bonnet to go to Masai Mara at some point and do a safari, and experience a bit of tribal life if possible. We left the museum and made our way back to Steve’s house. I am living out of my suitcase and am starting to get a bit disorganized with all the moving around! Had a nice evening with the family, looking at photos of Mercy’s birthdays and steve’s wedding. Had a lovely meal while watching tv. A Mexican soap opera out here that they love. I personally couldn’t get past the lip sinking from Mexican to English and found it hard to get into. Everybody was tired, including myself so went to bed around 9.30pm. I slept in mercy’s room on a bunk bed above her.

Monday 4th August

Woke up at 8am after a decent sleep where I felt refreshed for the first time this trip. Steve had prepared some hot water for me to wash with (thank you!) and I got ready for the day. Steve had made me an omelette, with fresh fruit and bread for breakfast. Mike arrived at 9.20am, had my breakfast and then helped me to sort out where the gifts I had brought out should go to. We split them into age groups… the biros and pads to Kibera, and colouring crayons, balloons and bubbles etc, the fun stuff, to the two primary schools I was visiting.

We then left for Kibera, the biggest slum in Africa, and second biggest in the world with over 3 million population. The poverty hits you immediately, homes made of corrugated iron slabs with gaps, that could be lifted up and moved. The whole site is a duping ground for rubbish… it is absolutely everywhere. We drove through to the centre which took about 20 minutes. Most people here earn just 10 shillings or less a day (about 8p). We drove to the centre where Kibera girls soccer academy is situated and waited for the teachers to come and greet us. The soccer academy started 7 years ago just as a soccer team, and then with the contributions from friends and well-wishers they have expanded into a school and soccer academy of about 85 girls. They want to expand to 4 forms but just don’t have the resources. They showed me into the office, a small mud hut style office and their one cupboard of resources. A few text books, two microscopes and some stationary. They explained about the school and the situation of the girls who learn here. They arrive every morning by 6 although lessons do not start until 7.30am. He said this is a clear sign they are desperate to get away from their home situation. The school already feeds the kids at lunch as for most it is the only meal they get and they do not focus properly in class without it. Ideally they would love to turn the school into boarding so that children do not have to go home every night to their horrendous situations, and would not have to walk the three hours there and back, which those living on the outskirts of the slums have to do.

They showed me their 3 small classrooms, with nothing but desks and chairs. It is the only free school in Kibera, which the teachers feel is very important, but everyday they have to turn girls away who come pleading to join because of lack of space and resources. While we were there a girl came carrying a desk and pleading to join form 2. Some girls in the school had told her that if she could provide a desk and chair to sit on she might get in. But they had to turn her away because of lack of space, they were already crammed in to tiny rooms. It was heart-breaking to watch, and the teachers felt awful sending her away, you could see the look on their faces. The lessons run from 7.30 until 4.30, where the soccer players, about 35 walk to the field outside of the slum to train for 2 hours. They are an excellent side, and currently through to the final of a county style championship, and are also known to beat some boys teams!


The girls had the day off today because they had their semi final on Saturday but I hope to meet them, watch them study and assist with their football training tomorrow, exciting! Because there were no girls to see I took a walk of the slum with the teachers. It is just full of rubbish. We walked the railway line which is normal, and people just run out of the way when a train comes, madness. I saw a lot, mainly rubbish run down shacks and people trying to survive and make a living on very little.

The only English that everybody knows is ‘how are you’ or from the very little kids ‘how arroooo’!!! I heard it non-stop the whole time I was out of the car! A man was preparing cows hoofs for his dinner, apparently it is cheap and the bone marrow is tasty…!


We walked to the top where I got the best view of most of the slum. The railway literally divides the rich and the poor. On one side the slum, and on the other a very nice golf course where the president often plays! It has to be seen to be believed. In Kenya, you could be living next door to someone rich, but then on the other side someone scraping for their one meal a day, madness.
Storm said I would leave me heart here, I am certainly humbled and emotional from the experience and am looking forward to meeting the girls tomorrow. I met Florence, one of the soccer players who was wearing a lacrosse shirt Storm had donated, she was very sweet. I feel St George’s, the school I teach at could do something small which would make a big difference here. Just 800 would build another classroom.

We left the slum and went to the cyber café before lunch. Much better internet service than Mumias, but still too slow to upload photos. Put blog on and read some of the comments. I was already feeling emotional and shed a few tears! We had a quick bite to eat and then back in the car for Umoja. We arrived at Peter Kibokosya school at 2pm and went straight in to meet the principal. I presented her with some stationary for the school. She was very pleased and said she would keep it for the new form arriving in September. I was happy with that as was about to meet 200 of them and certainly didn’t have enough for all of them.

They led me into a big classroom full of all the girls from the school. They had been waiting in there for over an hour as they anticipated my arrival!

I spoke for 10minutes about myself, and then opened the floor to questions. They were all very shy at first, and the other adults had to walk out of the room before the questions started coming. But when they did, it didn’t stop! Everything from school life in England, to the prime minister, to my favourite music and films. So many questions! They were desperate for me to sing the national anthem, you all know how I sing and I was just not prepared to embarrass myself like that!! So I hummed it and said the words, probably sounded worse! I then went into a classroom to see them working and it also gave the boys an opportunity to ask any questions they had. These were mainly football related so I did my best! Storm said I would be amazed to see how they work silently without a teacher in the room. It was not the case this time. They had just finished exams and so had nothing to do and were very chatty and loud!

The last job of the day was to go and visit one of the soccer academy boys for his hospital appointment. He was attempting a bicycle kick at training on Sunday and landed on his arm, snapping both the fibia and tibia in two. The boys thought it was a dislocation of the wrist so in trying to put it back they had done even more damage. He had been in a lot of pain but seemed settled now and was having an x-ray to check the bones are in the correct place under the cast so to heal correctly. He was very sweet.


We then said goodbye to Steve and Milka as I wont see them again. Milka gave me a gift. She had a bracelet with my name and the Kenyan flag on it made for me, so sweet, as well as a couple of other bits. She is so awesome, I will miss her a lot. Back to Maria’s and James’ house. I can relax here now as I don’t have to move all of my stuff again. I arrived and immediately felt at home. They are a very kind and generous family. I gave Alvin and Esther some presents which they were very chuffed with and also a pack of playing cards and a box of cadbury’s Roses! This set the evening up. After dinner we played an African game with the cards which was very funny. We lost hours playing and munching the chocs. I felt I bonded with the family that night. Nice.

Last Days In Mumias

01/08

Alarm went off at 7.55am and I got straight up in need of the loo!! My stomach is playing up again and just can’t cope with this food. Got dressed and had some breakfast, then got ready for my last day in Mumias. While waiting for Pius I decided to sit outside and get a bit of sun. It is my only chance as the Kenyans don’t like to be outside if it isn’t necessary, so have barely been in it. Caroline the maid came over for a chat. I told her it was the big day for a hair wash in cold water! She said why cold, you have hot water, just press the button!!!! WHAT??!! I had been having cold showers all week when I could have been having hot! Dammit! Never mind, it is all in the experience! The security guard then came over for a chat and asked what had I brought him as a present? He also wanted to know how much my watch cost, and way eyeing it up. I tried to change the conversation but it was very awkward. Luckily Pius came to pick me up. We went to the cyber café so I could upload my blog but the network was down so we would try again later.
My first stop for the day was the head office to meet with the secretary and the accountant to help my understanding of how the charity is run. All stuff really of little interest to me but I did appreciate the organization and how well and efficient it is run considering the lack of resources.
Once I was done I read the daily newspaper while waiting for Pius to pick me up. They had an interesting article about the ritual of circumcision. It is a big deal here and the season of circumcision is about to start. Groups of 20 or more boys will gather with an audience over hundreds to have the procedure performed on them. If they wince or show any emotion then they are considered weak and will bring shame on their family and themselves. Amazing!
Pius came and took me to the field office where I was to assist again with the computer class and was also an opportunity to bid farewell to those I had met there. The computer teacher Pauline showed me some of the work the students produced for their exams. The students here are around 18, and the work they were producing was of a similar standard to a year 7, really brings it all home. The technology is about 30 years behind and they are learning now for the first time.
Whilst I was teaching a bit about word and excel, just some basic tips, Fred called to see how I was getting on and to let me know he had sorted the itinerary for when I return to Nairobi to include a museum trip, a trip to the national park and giraffe centre, and some shopping. Sounds good, I need a bit of light relief after everything so far! He is aware I had felt lonely this week so had also arranged for me to visit his mother in a nearby village which is where he is from, as well as have dinner with Mariam, an HIV positive peer educator for the charity at her home in the village.
I said goodbye to those I had met in the office and then went to visit the last part of the charity that I had yet to see, the school health clubs. 60 schools are involved and I was going to visit Shitoko school for girls for a very short time. Within each school they have chosen 4 pupils from each year group to come together to make up the health club. They have speakers who come to educate them on HIV/Aids and the risks, preventions, as well as the importance of education. It is then their job to educate their peers and spread the word. I met the group who were excited to see a muzungu, and we had introductions. I then spoke to them about myself and the importance of education, and belief that you can succeed. Pius had asked me to encourage them to carry on working hard as they are at the age when many drop out and fail. In Kenya traditionally women are seen and treated worse than the men, and seen as less important. So I spoke at how I have become a teacher, and it is possible if you focus and work hard, and believe in yourself. Pius said they were inspired and he thought I had done a great job so I was pleased. We took some photos and said our goodbyes.
We then went to visit Fred’s mum in a village near Mumias. She doesn’t speak much English so Pius translated most of the conversation. She was very pleased to see me and gave me a big hug. She has very little, lives in a small house with her last born girl and her grandchild who were very sweet. She has been given a cow by SAIPEH which helps give her her income. She also harvests nuts and was busy working when we had arrived. Fred rang and spoke to his mum through Pius’ phone. She was pleased to talk to him. We spoke and introduced ourselves and then left. Fred’s mum gave me a bag of nuts as a gift, and a very generous one by her standards. It is very strange to see Fred living so differently from his mother. It shows he has worked hard and achieved in order gain success and a better life.
I then went for lunch with Pius in a café and then to the internet to try again. Was successful this time!
I said goodbye to Pius and the driver took me to Mariam’s village. It is a village of about 300 people who live in very basic huts with little. She showed me around and I met many of her neighbours and the children. At first they were not sure what to make of me, but gradually the longer I was there the more comfortable around me they became. All of the women were preparing their meals for the evening. Mariam showed me around her house, a living room, store room and bedroom, all inter linked and VERY Basic. In Kenya because of the way they cook and prepare they have their own huts they call kitchens! They cook and prepare form scratch, down to making the fire themselves and even catching the dinner! As a guest and to show real respect Mariam had slaughtered a chicken, and I watched her prepare it. This was a shock. I have never seen it before. The removal of all the feathers, the boiling, the burning off the feet skin and head skin etc. What freaked me out was that everything was going to be eaten of the chicken except the intestines. The feet and head are apparently the best bit!!!! Aaaaah! Another real experience! While the rest was being prepared ( I couldn’t bare the smoke on my eyes) I watched the children play and looked through some of Mariam’s photos. The children played for the whole time I was there ( 3 hours) with just a bit of straw knotted together to make a skipping rope. They also drew out hop skotch on the ground with a stick and played.
Mariam sat me down over dinner and I asked her to tell me her story. She was one of two wives with 6 children between them and they all lived in the same house as the husband. The second wife died and Mariam was blamed for using witchcraft on her which obviously wasn’t true. She them later found out her and her husband were HIV positive and the husband died because of it soon after. She was left with the disease and the family to take care of. She had very little. She has now been living with the virus for 19 years and is using her experience to make a positive difference in others’ lives. She is truly an inspiration.
The driver picked me up shortly after and took me back to the guest house where I could have a hot shower and wash my hair!!!! Yey! I packed and then went to bed, exhausted from the day and aware of the early start tomorrow.

Meeting the Mayor and does it rain in Africa?

Wednesday 30th July

Got up around 7.30am this morning after some snoozing… starting to get used to this `african time!' Had another very cold shower which I am not getting used to and then had some breakfast. 1 weetabix with hot milk and 2 boiled eggs!

The driver picked me up and we went to the head office of SAIPEH to meet Donald who was going to take me to meet the mayor of Mumias. We waited for Pius to arrive, who was late because he came to meet me and I had already gone so he had to get the public transport. We went to the mayor who works in what can only be described as an old scruffy building, very different from over here. He greeted me and I sat down in his office. Donald introduced me and talked about the work of SAIPEH. I felt me being there was a bit random and perhaps I was being used as a bit of a political tool. Donald was saying that he wants the mayor to have a link with the mayor of London and wondered whether I could help that to happen. I said it would be very benefitial for Mumias but that I have no way of doing that!

We had tea and then left for the office of the member of parliament, Mumias where Donald also works in his second job. We didn't stay long as I was being dropped at the theatre group I had met the other day for a longer 2 hour session with them.

I arrived and they greeted me with introductions. This happens everywhere I go. Over the 2 hours they performed songs, dances and skits all relating to the awareness of HIV/Aids. More or less straight away they had me up dancing. This was pretty funny, and I felt silly with all of them focusing on what I was doing… but I just went with it. I had a translator with me who was telling me what all the songs and skits meant. They were quite thought provoking and I thought the way they went about teaching awareness was clever. They used a lot of humour to engage the audience and then put a serious message across. It was a real experience which was over very quickly.

Pius came back to collect me and took me for lunch in a café in Mumias. I couldn't help myself and was craving some familiar food so I ordered omelette and chips!! It was good! Pius had ugali and fish. He says he loves ugali bread because it gives him lots of energy.

We had an hour to spare so I went to the internet café next door to try and email the blog. The internet connection is a nightmare and it took 10 attempts to send, very slowly. I was unable to put up any photos as they connection was just not up to it and the file size too big for the computer to cope. Will try when back in Nairobi and see if it makes any difference.

The driver came to take me to St James' girls school Bulimbo for another Lacrosse session. It was raining quite heavily and so I didn't know whether or not it would go ahead.

We arrived at the school and met the deputy principal who was interested to hear the vision and reasoning as to why Lacrosse is being introduced. I explained that Storm had introduced it into Africa and these two schools were the only playing. I told her the long term and ultimate goal is for a Kenyan team to be represented in an U19 World Cup. I met the basketball team in a physics lab (they were the girls who were taught it before) and introduced myself and talked a bit about the game and skills involved. They remembered bits from before but hadn't practiced since, even thought they had 7 sticks from Storm.





















The rain had stopped so we went outside and went through some stick skills. The girls improved very quickly and within minutes were throwing and catching the ball on the move. These girls seemed to understand me better than the girls yesterday. I couldn't work out if it was because I had learnt from the previous experience or because these girls understood more English, probably a bit of both.

We looked at the defending position and played some 2 v 1 and then 2 v 2. They were so good and I was shocked at how quickly they were picking the game up. They kept asking lots of questions and were eager to learn.

We went into a game, 7 v 7 with the sticks I had brought as well as Storm's. This was a good number and we used the handball field they had with goals.

The game was going well so every 5 minutes I would call them in and talk about some things that were happening. We looked at spacing as well as defending and I brought in a safe stick check. I used the rule that only one person can check the ball carrier. Why didn't I think of that yesterday! It worked much better and the girls were spacing out. They also tried to keep in defence, midfield and attacking positions which helped the spacing. A great session and I felt very positive about it. I thanked the girls for the session and asked them to continue with the game. Now they have more sticks and balls (donated from Wycombe Abbey School) they can play inter house tournaments. They were very pleased. I also awarded the player of the match we played an England Lacrosse polo shirt which she was very excited about.

Back to the guest house where I had rice and meat for dinner, got into bed and wrote my diary. A very good day.

Thursday 31st July

Slept straight through the night which is a first for this trip. Woke up in a mad rush to get to the toilet. Something I have eaten is definitely not agreeing with me! Had a shower, it is just too cold to get my head under but hair definitely needs a wash so will take the plunge tomorrow I think.

Pius picked me up at 9.20am and the first activity for the day was to visit some of the dairy cow, goat and poultry projects. Dairy animals are donated to care givers and those living positive lives with HIV to help them not only eat but provide them with some income.

I met two families. Rosemary who had been given a cow and chickens, and Patrick who had been given goats. They both welcomed me into their homes and told me their story and background. Rosemary is a widow without HIV but is caring for 7 children and Patrick is HIV positive, has 2 wives both HIV positive and 14 children. They are both very grateful for SAIPEH and the support they have given. Was really nice to meet them and hear their story. Everybody is so nice and please to meet with a muzungo (white person!).

We then went back to the field office where I joined in with a computer class. The computers are very old and like the first types of computers we had in our homes in England. The students work through 6 packages of Microsoft Office so they can then go out and get better jobs. They were on no. 3. The introduction of Microsoft Excel which involved more writing in their exercise books than working on the computer. I helped where I could and when they had finished writing I quickly showed them some basic things on excel, like creating a spreadsheet and adding data to make a chart. The students are like sponges and pick everything up so quickly, they are so eager to learn and improve.

I then left with Abraham to visit the SAIPEH local health clinic. There I met Caroline the nurse and secretary, and Alice the doctor. They both spoke excellent English and explained the work that they do. To think of a doctors surgery in England compared to this was literally opposite ends of the spectrum. The clinic is in a run down house, resembling a shed with very little in it. They have an injection room, a treatment room and reception where they keep the medicine. Alice explained that they mainly treat Malaria. A lady had come for treatment with severe malaria and asthma and I sat in on her consultation. She looked very poorly, coughing and spluttering, nose and eyes running and in a lot of pain. Alice took her details and weighed her so she could see how much medicine to give her. She had two injections, and although Alice does her best to keep things clean, it is completely different from the cleanliness in England. Was fascinating to watch her in action and how she deals with the patients.

As we left the centre the kids at the primary school opposite had spotted me and were shouting muzungo and pointing. Abraham said they had probably never seen one before.

Next stop was the feeding centre again, and I was so please to be going back there, I really enjoyed it last time and it is good to see some familiar faces. As I arrived the three guardians came rushing over and gave me a big hug. They thanked me for coming back and said I had three friends for life. Nice. I watched them prepare the food again and took a tour of the village. I went to meet the grand parents, 89 and 94 years of age, I think they are probably the oldest people I have ever met. They were lovely and said they wanted to visit England before they die. Very sad to think they will barely travel outside of their district, let alone country. We had some photos taken and then went back to meet the orphans as they came in. They were also pleased to see me and came up for a hug. It felt really good. I served them their food and each one of them said thank you in English. Nice.

When they were done we were served some lunch, uh oh I thought, this is where my upset stomach came from before. But I couldn't turn them down as it would upset them so just went with it and decided I would deal with it later!

Before we left I gave them a thank you card with a photo of me on it. Abraham translated the message and they said they would save up to photocopy it so they could each have one in their hut. I felt I had created a special bond with these people and they would be a reason to come back in the future.

We got back to the field office and I went to the supermarket with Pauline to get some bottled water. They had some small bars of Cadburys so I indulged and it was oh so good!

They didn't have anything else planed for the day so I sat in the office and Pauline played some African music videos on the computer for me to watch. After two hours of watching these videos as well as listening to westlife music (Abrahams favourite!) I walked with Maria (another member of SAIPEH) to get the bus ( I think they are called morder boda's) back to the guest house. It was absolutely peeing down with rain and I got soaked. I was wearing flip flops (a bad choice), so my feet were sliding everywhere and my feet and legs covered in dirt. We got to the bus and Maria realized she had forgotten her phone so had to make the journey back and forth again! Absolutely drenched by the time I got into the bus. They packed 19 people into an 11 seater and drove very fast down the road. I was very squashed and felt unsafe. Was a relief to get out except that meant more rain!.

Got back to the guest house and showered and changed straight away, trying to get warm.

A dinner of fish and ugali had been left in the dining room so brought it to my room as didn't want to sit in the big room on my own. Ate, sorted out the mossy net, did some chasing of mosquitos around the room and then bed.